Dumbledork wrote:I have a problem with my USB mouse. The damn thing stops working periodically, but when I unplug and replug it it works again for a while.
Somehow this only happens when World of Warcraft is running.
It MAY go away if you reinstall windows... Yeah i know, not a funny suggestion is it, leave it for when nothing else can be done.
This thing happened on my old system, windows/drivers issue. Took forever and ever to figure out and fix.
Sadly this is not so rare a problem. And with a number of possible solutions.
If you have drivers for the mouse, remove and reinstall. Or remove and NOT reinstall(instead only using windows default drivers, especially Logitech and Razer are infamous for wonky drivers).
You can also try removing and reinstalling USB drivers.
Check BIOS so that you do not have power saving(or Advanced Power Management) for USB set to activated.
You might need a BIOS update(be very careful with this though).
If you have external HDDs connected via the same USB, try disconnecting them.
Is it an
old MS Optical Wheel Mouse? A few batches of those were flaky.
AND, you can just do what i did until i figured it out, get an extension cable so you can have the connection right next to the mouse and unplug it and plug it back in superfast.
Cheb wrote:I never use anything less than Thermaltake since them, 550 Watts minimum, 700+ Watts for my gaming machine. Are you aware that most manufacturers bullshit you with the wattage number? Also, the quality of assembly is a thing man was not meant to know. Once you crack your "trusty" PSU open, your hair is bound to turn gray. Come on, there's no such thing as too much caution with the PSUs.
My Corsair VX 450W was tested by a hardware site( or 3 ) to be able to provide 600W constantly without flinching or even causing
any instability. If it wasn´t for my 120W gfx card in this (gaming) system, i could run it with a 250-350W PSU no problem.
As long as you get a PSU from a GOOD maker, you do NOT need and should not use a PSU with too high wattage. Why? Because PSUs are made to work optimally within a range of loading, so if you have a system drawing 300W and a 700W PSU, you might actually get instability because the system puts such
low load on the PSU.
Also, a low load usually means the PSU conversion ratio goes into the gutters, my PSU runs at around 85-90% as it does now, but if i had let´s say a 750W instead, with this load it´s ratio would drop probably down to around 75%, and with a bad PSU, that ratio might fall down as far as even below 50%. What that would actually
MEAN, is that if your system draws 250W(normal for a desktop with some frills, or a simple gaming system almost like mine), then at the wallsocket, the PSU is drawing 500W or more. That can be plenty enough to be noticed on the electricity bills.
Thermaltake is pretty good nowadays, but not the best.
Antec has managed to stay reliable and fairly highend for a long time.
Seasonic tends to be top notch(as long as you only buy stuff from them that is
clearly marked by their own brandname, because they also make lots of cheap stuff under other names).
FSP group and Enermax are generally reliable and pretty good.
Super Flower tends to be good.
Silverstone tend to be icky pricy because they also tend to be very high quality.
Zalman is usually ok or better but they buy from several manufacturers(those they get from FSP group tends to be good quality).
Still, i picked my Corsair for a reason... Best i could find that didn´t break the bank account.
I refuse to even touch OCZ. They have gotten better, but it´s still hit n miss, total random with their PSUs if you get a good or a bad one.
Please use this to check how much you actually NEED:http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psuc ... orlite.jspAnd it´s rather funny that when i just tested the above, i got the result 330W minimum(and thats with a 25% security blanket for capacitor aging), 380W recommended Aaaand the specific ad recommendation was the Corsair CX 430W, which is essentially the newer "little brother" to the PSU i already have.
My game pc has a 190 Watt video card. Add a power hungry AMD processor (I couldn't help it, I wanted ECC support but beside certain AMD models, only Intel Xeons have it. And these beasts are too expensive for my tastes). That's 125 Watt more. As a result, CPU burn test + furmark = a powerful jet of hot air from a roaring turbo fan, UPS indicating 620VA of load (which is not exactly Watts, but I believe it equals 550Wt or more). Hell, I sometimes use it to warm my room during chill weather 
To think I used to be poor and use exactly crap like this.
Performing autopsy on their dusty innards or shunting around a dead fan control module so that they stop overheating...
